Monday, February 8, 2010

Miller Union

Initially, based on the name, I thought it was a gathering place for white people to drink cheap beer so they wouldn't be embarrassed. This joint is as white as the people who drink Miller Lite... And so is the menu.

It says on their website, they are "Owned by Atlanta industry leaders..." But playing it safe is the name of the game here. There's nothing ground breaking or innovative here that we haven't seen 1000's of times (like Sean M. said - it's stuff white people like)... It's home cooking or what Michael Voltaggio would say "Food I cook on my day off.". This could be a very smart strategy for a new resto actually, cook simple food that the staff can handle, then move on to dishes with more balls later on. It can also mean this is all they got to offer... But at their price point they really need to kick it up a notch. Bocado's menu is more interesting and cheaper, too.

Vidalia onion and potato soup..... So basic, it was like the soup I made in culinary school, level 1. Not bad, just needed to be more seasoned. I will prolly never get this again.

Chicken liver mousse and pickled okra..... The consistency was more like hair mousse than liver mousse. It was mushy to say the least but the flavors were decent enough. The grain mustard was a nice compliment. The 2 small okra was kinda chincy though.

Beer braised pork shoulder, sauteed greens, sweet potato jacket..... A nice size hunk of 'prok', fork tender and tasty. Simple dish, hard to mess up... Unless, you use MGD. Come to think of it...

Slow braised rabbit, wild mushrooms and grits..... Wow, grits on a menu, these guys are crazy! I think they are because that rabbit was shredded to a billion pieces, you couldn't tell if it was chicken, pork or possum. Yeah, make the piece of meat unidentifiable and tasteless for your diners instead of showcasing the rabbit. I actually like the gamey-ness, lets you know you're eating a rodent. The wild mushrooms looked and tasted eerily like re-hydrated Chinese black mushrooms. For $24, this was amateur hour at best.

The service was spot on but the four 2 top tables in that Hobbit hole was as fucking cramp as a broad on the rag. I don't know about you, but when I eat I need room for my pouch to expand and the edge of the table was cramping my style. I had to do the electric slide just to get to the pisser.

Overall, it's another nice addition to the Westside even though the menu is for the L.L. Bean fleece jacket crowd.

Zippp.

999 Brady Ave
Atlanta, GA 30318
(678) 733-8550

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