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All this new hero worship is getting just too rowdy for me. I just don't get what all the fuss is about. It reminds me of a rock star, no matter how fugly he is, has limitless broads throwing themselves on him like rice at a wedding.

The Blais army loves him unquestioningly and uncritically and excess to a point that would make a pack of rowdy billy goats puke. And this billy gastro almost did after tasting a couple dishes. If he shat on a shingle, it would win an award or make gourmet coffee with it. But he does have a talent to create amazing vittles... mebbe just not in this rowdy setting, there's just too many distractions from his craft.

Let's get to the quick and dirty, shall we...

Van Duzer Vintner's Cuve Oregon Pinot Noir- I know we're in Da South but this delicious libation got down and dirty! Based on what I know, this wine was produced for restos but a small amount is available to the public. Looks like I will have to beat the rowdy vineheads with a stick for some of this love juice.

Oysters w/ Tabasco Dipping Dots- Beautiful briny little plumps of sea snots went down the shaft smoothly without any gag reflex. Jenna Jameson would be proud. Just delish.

Vidalia Onion Soup- Creamy and sweet with a nice consistency. A great palate teaser. The Soup Nazi ain't got nuthin' on this.

Buttermilk Pancakes w/ Foie Gras Butter- Don't get me wrong... I love fat wrap around more fat. But this dish was flatter than the Monchhichi size pancakes. The foie gras butter tasted like... dusty old butter. It woulda been better if there was a thin slice of foie gras on top of the butter medallions. Blueberries were nice,but it's just berries after all, dingleberries woulda done the twick. No syrup present. Eh.

Bone Marrow w/ Beef BBQ- What a beautiful presentation... until I pulled a glob of way undercooked pink Play-Doh that was cold and gelatinous. If I closed my eyes mebbe I can trick myself into thinking it was mango sherbet. That plate was recalled like a case of mad cow. Meh.

Lamb Shank w/ Gnocchi- Beautiful Fred Flintstone sized shank. Fork tender and flavorful... it was devoured like a pack of wolves. I got a little rowdy with the bare bone like Captain Caveman. The Gnocchi was mushy and dry... it was like mashed taters. I rather have tater tots wit whiz. Great dish almost ruined by poor execution.

Black Sea Bass w/ Rice- I haven't had bass this fishy and smelly since the likes of Beleza's sous vide bass... and I even had my legs closed. I'm just glad there weren't any scales on it. This yellow rice was so wet , I swear the bass might had pissed on it before he got fired up. What a mess... I'm glad I only ate one bite of it or else I would have made a dirty mess in my pants. Oy vey.

Biscuit and Family Style Veggies- The biscuit was fluffy and nice, the 5 pepper jelly made it even better. Peeps get rowdy if they run out of the jelly... it's that good, really. The veggies were dismal... home fries were soggy and unseasoned, I was scared to nosh on the cherry tomatoes with the recent news of salmonella, the greens were so salty and bitter it coulda been saltlick to lure wild animals, and the brussels sprouts was the only saving grace of the array of dirty farm vegs, they were tender and seasoned well. But I don't know if I'm in love with bwusselz spwoutz in all it's forms though.

The space is beautiful and the horrendous music made me wanna learn sign language... but the staff/ fwendz there really made up for the grub that was barely passable. If my mom made food like this when I was a child, I would have called DFACS myself long ago.

Vroom vroom.

111 W Paces Ferry Rd
Atlanta, GA 30305
(404) 869-0777

www.heretoserverestaurants.com