Tuesday, January 24, 2012

Latitude Food and Drink

Opened quietly only a few months ago in the old Grape space comes an upscale casual new American resto with a very simple menu. I like it already because the limited menu reflects thoughtfulness and focus on fresh local ingredients... Well, who isn't these days. But with this menu, I can't find one thing remotely suspect that it came from a frozen brown bag on the back of a Sysco truck.

The decor and interior is simple and modern but yet cozy and comforting. How could this be hidden inside a mall? Better question, why is it in a mall? Mebbe they got a good deal on the space since no one comes to Phipps Plaza anymore. But whatever the reason, let's give it a shot... It looks promising.

(Sazerac)

Ah, yeah, pweez.


(Beef tartare- local sirloin, roasted garlic, fried capers, fresh aioli)

Lurv me some raw meat. The sirloin wasn't ground to mush like most tartare, it had texture, like little cubes of spongy flesh. Toothy, if you will. This was pretty much spot on, except the over lathering of aioli on the toast thingers, it doesn't need that much. It overwhelms the natural flavor of the beef itself. Plus, you got garlic and capers on top of that, don't need the aioli really, a little butter would even do. But a nice app to start. Me likey.


(Crispy eggplant- tomato conserva, house made ricotta, pine nuts)

This was one dish I was wondering how they would do it. When you read it on the menu, it conjures up images of this Sichuan dish called Dry Fried Eggplant that everyone and their mothers know. Well, at least in my numbskull it did. And surprise me it did when it came out, it looked really fucking weird. Big wedges of eggplant dusted with cornmeal-esque coating and deep dried. Might even been in the fryer a tad too long, it was pretty dark. Hope it doesn't taste off. Nope, not bad at all. The skin of the eggplant itself gave off the impression that it was almost burnt fried. The San Marzano tomato conserva (fancypants name for tomato paste) was pretty awesome, sweet, delicate and vibrant. Add a little soft ricotta and nutty crunch of pine nuts and you got a tasty app. It's fugly initially but after tasting it, it's all good.


(Chioggia beets, vinegar, tarragon, fleur du sel)

These local Chioggia (not of the Italy sort) coulda been a bit sweeter. Well, they were local... So, can't fault them on the product. But I did miss that beautiful and bold red and white stripes you normally find in a real Chioggia beet. Overall, a nice side dish, only thing I would say for this is easy on the salt, bro.


(Grilled pork chop- bone in chop, roasted brussel sprouts, apple agro-dolce)

First things first... Was it cooked to temp? Yes! Medium with slight pink. That's how you do it, baybee! This nicely grilled bone in chop was spot on. The bone was even Frenched properly (no silver skin or other crap all wrapped around the bone like some burnt condom), kinda impressed but expected for a restaurant/chef of this level. Brussel sprouts were nicely roasted with some char around the edges. The sweetish apple "sauce" enhanced the pork nicely. Good, simple and satisfying dish.


(Lamb burger- ground lamb and beef, gruyere cheese, rosemay aioli, arugula)

Now, this is a burger... Cooked properly to temp, medium rare of course, and super juicy. Maybe too juicy. Only gripe is they shoulda let it rest a bit before putting it on the ciabatta-esque bun... The bun did it's job absorbing the meat juice but there was some leakage over the edge. The smoked fingerling taters with crema and chives were fine, nothing mind blowing but did pair well with the burger. Thank God, they didn't do fries, a nice change.

(Glamour shot)


(Doughnut holes with blood orange marmalade)

Light, airy and fluffy. Not too sugary on the coating but the blood orange marmalade was a little too tart... Yes, B.O. is usually tart but in a dish like this, you might want to balance it out to be more on the sweeter side since they went lighter on sugar coating the ballz. It's a cute dish but for $7 a pop for 6 nuts, I'll pass next time.

The service was great, this is how all restos should be like and I don't ask a lot of the servers, just get my order right and bring out my food on time. It doesn't take much more effort to be a decent human being to paying customers, actually, if you enjoy working at a place, it takes very little effort. Our server was excellent, knowledgeable and not overbearing. The bartender kinda screwed up my Sazerac in the beginning with it being way too sweet and overly spiced, I asked if they could just round it off with a splash of more rye... He went ahead and made a brand new one and delivered it to my table without missing a beat. Now, that's service... And I didn't even ask for it.

This new-ish resto from Micah Willix is definitely one of the hidden gems in Atlanta, let alone inside a friggin low traffic zombie mall that I despise. The menu is fresh, seasonal, affordable, consistent, well executed and controlled (it doesn't have 8 million dishes on it trying to impress us with fancy truffle oil and all that other bullshit or trying to break new ground with some weird ass cuisine, which we all know has never and will never work in this town)... Add a lil great service to that and you got a winner.

Go.

2.5 Stars

3500 Peachtree Road
Atlanta, GA 30326
678-990-9463
http://latitudeatlanta.com/

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