Finally, a real restaurant from RB, the master supreme Top Chef of the universe... It's a nice change from the plebeian burger and hot dog joints he's been involved in. With full financial backing from Concentrics, it's about time the public can see what a master Top Chef contestant can do in a high volume full service resto. There was no expense spared here from the build out of the space to the kitchen, so it better be, wait, it has to be incredible and amazing...
Let's take a looksie...
Clown Shoes Clementine. Decent beer but it was listed as $5 on their website and then a nice mark up to $8 at the resto (retail 4 pack is $8). Don't you just love how restos bait and switch. Mind you that this resto just opened and they have already worked out the cost in advance and posted it online (they're not amateurs in the biz)... But then decide to change it all up when you sit down. So many unscrupulous places do this all the time, it's basically a standard practice, so not really a surprise.
Bread and Butter. Bread was cold and nothing really special but you don't expect that anyways. The butter was swiped on the wooden board pap smear style... Guess it's supposed to be artistic but it is really sanitary? Whatever.
Bone Marrow, Hamachi Tartare, Fried Quail Eggs. Looked great when it came out but then your eyes hover over the burnt bread and it makes you sad. No problem getting a replacement but it took 10 minutes. Oh, well, whatever... But the biggest disappointment was the amount of bone marrow on this sizeable bone, there was literally one spoonful, the rest of the bone had zero because of how it was cut. They just covered it up wit the tartare and hope that you won't notice. This is just sloppy attention to details. You pay for bone marrow but you get boned instead... And I didn't even get a kiss first.
Uni Spaghettini, Lobster, Perilla Butter. Hey look... Is it Eric Ripert's Sea Urchin Pasta? Because I love this dish. But nope, not even close. I had Le Bernardin's original version 3 times and it made me came involuntary every time, it was almost embarrassing. This rendition was just plain embarrassing. No uni flavor, over cooked pasta, etc etc etc. Don't even waste your calories on this, stick with the proven oysters & pearls.
Crisp Pork Belly, Octopus & BBQ Chick Peas. This is the cutest gimmick in culinary history since the foie gras shake... The dish arrives to the table with this glass jar filled with smoke and then revealed in front of you. It's a wonderful visual for the eyes but the smoke did nothing to the taste. It's like the server taking a big puff of a gorgeous Cuban cigar and blowing it in your face but you don't get to inhale it. Besides the silly smoke and mirror trick, the crisp pork belly was actually very tasty, the octopus was an odd addition to this but it was fine. The bbq chick peas did nothing for me.
In true RB fashion, it's more about showmanship than execution of the menu. People go for the name and not really for the culinary aspects. It's like going to a friend's house for a dinner party and you say it was wonderful even though it was nothing spectacular. You go there to spend time with friends to catch up and the food is just there for conversation. The staff is well trained, very friendly and accommodating and that made all the difference from a boring meal to a mediocre meal.
This joint will be popular for awhile but if they don't step it up on the food and execution, it will eventually become tiresome.
1.5 Stars.
75 Fifth St. NW.
Atlanta, GA 30308
404.892.911
http://www.thespenceatl.com/
No comments:
Post a Comment