Was it a coincidence that a trio of Ferrara ovens graced us at two different restaurants at the same exact time? Is it a coincidence that my pouch knows when Popeyes has just put out a fresh batch of spicy chicken on the rack? Who the fuck knows but me likey... Me likey a lot. You have Fritti bringing over the man himself, Stefano Ferrara, to hand build a new permanent oven on their premises and Double Zero ordered two pre-fabbed custom jobs shipped over prior to their opening. So, if I use all my fingas and toes to count the number of sick ass 1000 degree wood burning pizza ovens from Italy, that number would be 6, including the 3 Acuntos at Antico. Yes, I'm a 3 toed sloth.
So, the same owners of Iberian Pig and Sugo are trying their hands at the much talked about and loved Napoletana pies that have hit Atlanta hard like a domestic abuse case in the past couple years. Before the pizza wars, one of Atlanta's best offers were had at the long standing Rosa's Pizza but in reality, anyone that knows pizza knew Rosa's was borderline at best. It's like being stranded on an island with a volleyball and a box of DiGiorno Pizza & Cookies... I would eat Wilson. Well, fatso, how are the pies at DZ you ask?
They use quality ingredients, a must if you don't want to fart around and pass off gas to true pizza aficionados. They got it... From the 00 flour to the San Marzano tomatoes to the bufala mozzarella. Everything looked great on paper... Except the most important ingredient to a perfect Napoletana pie, the pizzaiolo. As with a master sushi chef, one can not become one over night or even in a couple months. It takes years and years of experience to become a master. Both sushi and pizza seem like they are easy to prepare but the journey is complex. This is DZ's weakness but in time, they will/should be a lot better. But first, let's take a lookie at the rest of their menu...
So, the same owners of Iberian Pig and Sugo are trying their hands at the much talked about and loved Napoletana pies that have hit Atlanta hard like a domestic abuse case in the past couple years. Before the pizza wars, one of Atlanta's best offers were had at the long standing Rosa's Pizza but in reality, anyone that knows pizza knew Rosa's was borderline at best. It's like being stranded on an island with a volleyball and a box of DiGiorno Pizza & Cookies... I would eat Wilson. Well, fatso, how are the pies at DZ you ask?
They use quality ingredients, a must if you don't want to fart around and pass off gas to true pizza aficionados. They got it... From the 00 flour to the San Marzano tomatoes to the bufala mozzarella. Everything looked great on paper... Except the most important ingredient to a perfect Napoletana pie, the pizzaiolo. As with a master sushi chef, one can not become one over night or even in a couple months. It takes years and years of experience to become a master. Both sushi and pizza seem like they are easy to prepare but the journey is complex. This is DZ's weakness but in time, they will/should be a lot better. But first, let's take a lookie at the rest of their menu...
(Burrata Caprese)
Beautiful tomatoes (heirloom or not, still tasty). Light and fresh with good flavors and textures throughout the dish. I had a ball in each cheek like a chipmunk with a burrata moustache.
(Lamb Polpette)
These little lamb balls were not bad at all, quite tasty. Crispy exterior, meatball like substance inside. Just don't gargle them.
(L'Arrosto)
Look at this fucking beast. If you look closely you can almost make out Predator's face. He's one uglee muddafukka but this was a thing of beauty. Only a mother could love and my pouch. That's the face I usually make before I destroy a piece of hulking man meat or climax. This is prolly the best dish they have to offer. At $29, it's priced better than some entrees. Git er done!
(Da fixins)
The accoutrements above also comes with flat bread made from the pizza dough that can be used like tortillas. You really need to share this app but if you're an obese fuck like me, you can prolly eat it all by your lonesomes... in the dark.
(Polipo)At $12, this was a total let down. One measly tentacle? Put that thing back in your pants, John Wayne Bobbitt, you're scaring the children. The texture was not there whatsoever, it was mushy to the point that it seemed it was decomposing. It was just plain bad. Octopus should always have a nice chew to it. Wait for it... "toothy".
I have no goddamn clue what this was... I was too nervous in anticipation of the 'Za. I think it lasted on the table for maybe about 2 minutes. Slurp. Maybe tis was the prok belly polenta with farm egg. Yeah yeah that's it, that's the ticket! Where's dat 'Za, I'm starving!!!
(Margherita)
Ah, da piece de resistance! Although, it was a nice pie, something was missing. It mighta been red but it didn't give me a blood flow. Mebbe it was the lack of bufala? Coulda used a lil more mozza, looked kinda naked. The crust was more cracker like than chewy and the sauce didn't have that natural sweetness like most San Marzano, it wasn't bland but needed some seasoning assistance. I'll need to get back to you on this later... developing.
(Double Zero Napoletana)
Their signature pie. Hmmm, I wanted to fold it in half and eat it like a sandwich instead. It was just too dry over all for me. If you don't try new things, you never know if you'll like or not, in this case, once is enough for this old dog.
(Margherita, extra char)
Since, the first pie was under cooked to my liking, I asked that this pie stay in the oven a bit longer and let me tell ya, it makes a difference. Nice char, just the right amount of bufala and basil. Wow, what a difference a little adjustment and request can make on the taste budz. Was it a great pie? Not yet but on the right track.
(Rapini e Salsicce)
I don't know about you but does this look at all appetizing? Looked like someone threw this stuff up in the air and caught it with a plate. The sausage needed more seasoning and maybe a little crispy-ness to it but it looked like a child ripped it to pieces in no rhyme or reason. I understand it may suppose to be rustic fare but it looked so amateurish. The dish sounds great on paper but the entire dish needed seasoning, it was too boring for me.
(Red Velvet Cupcake)
Dessert - One word: Boring. I don't get chicks and their cupcakes.
DZ is obviously popular with the local crowd and opening in Sandy Springs was a good move. There are hits and misses but hopefully will be worked out in time and practice. A lot of dishes were under-seasoned which makes things boring to the tongue. These guys know what they're doing in the resto biz, but Napoletana pizza is an art form and difficult to master. And the great pizzerias do nothing else except pizza, so having an extensive menu such as here may have compromised theirs. The pizza has the right lineage but the execution needs a history lesson. But I have confidence in them to get it right. Take off the dishes that aren't working or selling and focus mostly on the 'Za's... The Zaza has spoken.
BTW- The cocktail program is pretty decent but I have to agree that the $15 Negroni is sacrilegious when a bot of Campari costs about $20. Wait, where am I? Am I back home in NYC? I forget.
2.5 Stars
5825 Roswell Road
Atlanta, GA, 30328
404-991-3666
http://www.doublezeroatl.com/home/
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