The owners' original plan was to make this joint into a fine dining resto with Robert Phalen... Did they not get the memo? Fine dining is dead, bro... And who the fuck wants to go to Memorial Drive for fine dining? Only mooks who want to get mugged afterwards that's who. That strip is not exactly a destination spot. Thank newborn 8 lbs 6oz baby Jesus that Phalen decided to focus on his wonderful joint, One Eared Stag, instead... But sadly, it turns out that he's closing OES, now. That decision probably saved this places' ass... Open your eyes and look around this area... Yeah, it's being developed and gentrified like a mofo but that doesn't mean a fine dining destination will do well here. It's like dressing up to go to East Point for tacos... Ok, I would dress up for the world famous Chic-A-Loes' cheekan sando, but that's the only exception. I mean who goes to East Point unless it's under gun point.
Located in the Larkin on Memorial mixed-use center, this new comer joins a handful of other restos- Firepit Pizza (I can't believe this place is still open, maybe they revamped the menu?), Full Commission, Ramen Station and I'll put Grant Park Market on this list as well with their cool counter service. But let's focus on this new joint since I was curious about the very approachable and diverse hand picked menu. It's a mix of different flavors from around the world- A little Japanese, a little Korean, a little Polish, a little Southern, a little American and a little rock and roll. It's not a big menu by any means which could mean they care about quality over quantity and not mass producing the same generic dishes like everywhere else. There's some gimmicky dishes like the okonomiyaki, tempura avocado and Korean pork philly... But it ain't gonna hurt my feelings because they have bone marrow on the menu. The Pouch's instincts are usually correct and I'm getting a warm and fuzzy feeling with this place or was that my hand down my pants, again... Shit, that reminds me, I need to manscape, STAT. Shit, I'm like an Alaskan Bush People or is that Atlantan Bush People. Damn Covid and the whole work from home gig for the last year really makes you forget to do a lot personal upkeep... Maybe that urban myth about the origins of hairy palms ain't a myth afterall, squirt.
Let's take a first look... I love the space and I love the cozy bar. It's a simple, clean and modern space. They call it "a casual but elegant neighborhood bistro with a seasonal menu"... I concur. The staff was on point, greeting people coming through the doors within seconds and sitting people quickly and orderly. Hell, I don't want to jinx it, so, let's get right to it... Just stick with the classics, Pouch... Don't fuck around and screw this up...
Roasted Bone Marrow, chimichurri, sourdough, pickled shallots, $12. I haven't had bone marrow in such a long time (besides making it at home but it's hard to find the length sliced bone marrow) and this was just a treat. They call it the "canoe-cut" marrow bones from the Stone Mountain Cattle Co. located in Dublin, GA which is nowhere near Stone Mountain... But who knew there was one. The marrow was spot-on with just the right amount of spreadable gelatinous gooey savory bone snot that paired well with the sour dough. And if you like to make it last like I do, they will accommodate you with more bread. Love it.
Tempura Avocado, sweet Thai chili sauce, cilantro, sesame, $9. Shit, don't blame me... I didn't order it but I will eat it. Yes, it's gimmicky as hell but I gotta admit it is a fun dish even if the presentation is like a mom putting pizza rolls on a plate for a 5 year old... If they put this on toast, the roundeyes will eat the shit outta this and pay $20 for it... Not that they don't already.
Burrata, herb oil, porcini condiment, sourdough, $10. Ok, I gotta admit that spreading some of this vibrant burrata on top of the bone marrow is sacrilegious but this fat turd don't give a fuck because it tasted fucking amazing. Look, it all goes to the same place... But have y'all ever heard of anyone complaining about the cheese on a Filet-O-Fish? Yeah, didn't think so motherfuckers. This burrata was gorgeous, the vibrant green herb oil and the earthy porcini condiment underneath worked together perfectly and naturally. It just tasted so clean and healthy... But I ain't getting any skinnier.
Pierogi, 48 hour brisket, caramelized onion and potato; braised cabbage, farmers cheese and potato; served with roasted apple, charred rosemary & thyme crema, $8. I love pierogis because every cuisine and culture have their own version of the dumpling. And these playful little Polish empanadas really hit the spot. I wished they gave you four of these but I would even settle for three at this price.
W&P Burger, 7 oz stone mountain cattle co. grass-fed beef, hot mustard, roasted garlic aioli, white american cheese, house pickles, sweet onion, handcut fries, $15. Requested mid-rare minus since most places overcook the classic burger but this meat patty came out perfectly juicy which the sturdy bun absorbed it without turning it into a pink dough. I wished I took a picture of that gorgeous rosy red center when I cut it in half but I couldn't help myself and literally ate the entire thing without stopping one bit except to pick up the other half. It's one of the tastiest burgers I have had recently in this one horse town. I love how the 'murican cheez blankets the entire patty so you get the full flavor of all the ingredients (hidden under the cheese blanket) with every bite. The handcut fries are addictive as well.
Steak Frites, stone mountain cattle co. 10 oz bistro steak, sauce bernaise, handcut fries, $27. I'm beginning to like this Stone Mountain Cattle Co.'s products... But let's see how their steaks are... And of course, they hit it out of the park, again. Requested mid-rare and it was spot-on once again with a perfect rosy juicy center. The steak was full of flavor and so tender with the perfect bite that required little effort to masticate it down to the pouch. And my dopey brain produced enough dopamine to satisfy my cravings without even touching my special place.
This is a nice addition to the Atlanta restaurant scene... It's not fancypants and overpriced for average grub like at most places that sell the idea of what fine dining should be to gullible schmucks and the food is anything but. W&P's menu is what they say it is... Casual but elegant. This is what people want to eat. Good food shouldn't have to be in a formal setting. I love to see what they have in store next on their seasonal menu... And continue to keep it under 15 items. There is absolutely no reason to have a ridiculously large menu like a shitty diner with almost everything coming from a freezer.
Did the Pouch actually liked a place on the first try? Fuck me, I did.
Squirt.
519 Memorial Dr. SE
Atlanta, GA 30312
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