Modern Restaurant + Bar

Anyone remember that ghetto ass dump, Copeland's? Well, you didn't miss much, it was total garbage. The food was greasy, oily, fatty, salty, creamy and smelly... With a 70% runs rate. I shit you not but you may before you get home. It's a wonder it lasted longer than it did... But that's old news. Let's get to the good news. The Modern. No one really knew much about this place, it took forever to build out. Maybe because the owner is a restaurateur from Connecticut. Say what? That's one helluva commute to check on the progress. Not only were there little 411 about the place, no one even knew who the chef was... Not even the owner. That's because they didn't have one yet. That's ballsy, dude.

Here's where Mark Alba, a veteran cook that worked at a few not too shabby places, enters the Buckhead dining scene, again. He took a hiatus from the sweaty ballsack cooking world to do his own gig for awhile. I guess he didn't like having clean and dry balls. High five to that... Make that an air high five, bro. Let's hope he can impress the pouch with some of his old magic from the days of yore...

SELECTION OF ARTISAN CHEESES & CHARCUTERIE with traditional accompaniments. A nice tasty selection to whet yo mama's appetite.

SONOMA FOIE GRAS pineapple-upside down cake, ginger snap crumbs, maple syrup. Seared and scored perfectly. This was a really good piece of foie gras that was cooked how it should be, a little more than rare inside. Hell, I eat it raw sometimes. The other stuff on the plate were just filler. This piece of offal was a fucking rockstar.

HAMACHI SASHIMI canteloupe sorbet, lime-mint oil. Hamachi was fresh but the lime-mint oil kinda coated the natural flavor of the fish. The price tag may be a little steep for the size but still good to try it, though.

BRAISED VEAL CHEEKS sweet potato gnocchi, cippolini onions, pomegranates, port reduction. Super tender and savory but a little heavy on the port reduction. Still very good though. Like this hot app a lot, just a little less port redux.

GRILLED HANGER STEAK avocado-lime puree, tomato-cucumber salsa, crispy jalapeno chips. Cooked spot on medium rare. Nice color and everything worked well together.

GARLIC AND ROSEMARY LOIN OF LAMB chickpea puree, artichokes, grilled scallions, lamb jus. One word: Lamb. Two more words: Medium rare. Good stuff.

CREAMY LEEK RISOTTO speck ham, treviso, poached farm egg, aged balsamico. The crispy speck chips and poached egg were nice. The aged balsamico was kinda suspect since it didn't have that rich intense flavor and density of a great balsamico from Modena. The risotto was decent but no hint of the treviso unless it was chopped finely. Still tasty to me.

MONKFISH bok choy, leeks, shiitake mushrooms, coconut curry broth. I couldn't cook a more perfect piece of Monkfish, it was pretty awesome. The coconut curry broth was lacking, it was more of an aromatic fumet. Good dish, but needs work on intensifying the coconut curry broth since the poor man's lobster is kinda neutral.

PAPPARDELLE braised beef short rib, sweet peas, mushrooms, mint. Short rib was super tender and savory. Pasta was thin, wide and al dente, just spot on. Another winner.

Tempura Fried Cheesecake Bites. I am not a big dessert fan but these were cute.

Chocolate Torte with Caramelized Bananas. The banana and dots remind me of Mr. Hanky frolicking but it tasted much better than poo. Sometimes, these things they call desserts are just a waste of valuable pouch space... I could finished this meal off with a juicy burger but that is just me.

On another visit, I had a few mouthfuls (no pics, too lazy) from the rest of the menu which were all deriricous as well... Especially, the crispy duck. Mmm...

BEEF TENDERLOIN TARTARE shallots, baguette toast, sauce gribiche
YELLOW FIN TUNA TARTARE cucumber, avocado, soy sauce powder, baguette toast
WILD MUSHROOM TARTLET truffle pecorino, arugula, aged balsamico
SOUS VIDE PORK BELLY roasted parsnip farro, tuscan kale, apple confit, sherry-maple reduction
YOUNG CHICKEN parsnip bread pudding, brussels sprouts, chicken jus
LONG ISLAND DUCK carrot-ginger puree, french beans, orange-soy glaze
MAINE SEA SCALLOPS cauliflower puree, brussels sprouts, brown butter, candied lemon confit

And I wonder why I'm so fat... If you want a consistent, well-executed, and eater-friendly menu for everyone, this is your best bet in Buckhead. Hopefully, they will add more adventurous items on the menu in the future and it may garner them that elusive 4th star that only a handful has had the honor from the pouch in this one horse town. Wait, who am I kidding? It's Buckhead... I ain't gonna get chicken uterus, brains, balls, lungs, intestines, hearts, toe nails et al... Boo. Guess they'll have to settle for 3 stars for now. BTW- The service was great and not overbearing or intrusive.

Burp.

PS- Don't forget to stop by Twin Peaks after for the spectacular view. Squirt.

3 Stars.

3365 Piedmont Rd.
Atlanta, GA 30305
404-554-1100
http://www.modernbuckhead.com/